Anticipation of the five treasures

On the 1st of September, I was excited. The reason was the destination that we were heading to, Kanchenjunga South base camp. I had heard a lot about the treasures of Kanchanjunga and was anticipating it. It was my first trip to the Kanchenjunga circuit. I departed from Kirtipur to Koteshwor early in the morning. After waiting only one hour, the Hiace started moving. Crossed Sanga Bhayanjayang, Panchkahal, Bardibas and turned left to Ghaigaht. I was willing to visit Dharan with my colleague Bhakta Rai, who operates Samabri Koich Cottage in Tarahara Homes Itahari. I reached Dharan and shared with him about the baseline survey. He thanked the STP project. We visited throughout the clean and green city. During returning to his cottage, he shared his memorable events that happened during his Manaslu and Kanchenjunga circuit treks. 

New roads and old villages

The second day began with a ride as I took a Jeep from Tarahara Homes. I was planning to reach Taplejung from the Tamor corridor. At present, most of the pilgrims, tourists and local people reach Taplejung from this short route. The Jeep crossed Dharan and moved towards Bhedetara. Bhedetar is a popular tourist hill station nearby Dharan offering a beautiful view of the city along with cool breeze. The Jeep turned right and started moving towards the Jharana side. Passing through the hilly settlements of Dhankuta, we reached Ganesh Chowk. We were now rolling on the Mechi Highway. Observing hilly settlements, Kabeli river basin and northern Taplejung, reached Fungling at 3:00 PM. Fungling is the densely populated city located at hilly foothills and terraced landscapes. I met with my field researcher in Hotel Pathibhara who came from Birtamod, his hometown. He has been operating trek 8586 with the sole mission “Promoting Kanchenjunga as a popular mountain tourism destination”. He introduced me to his colleagues in a coffee shop. They shared contributions of KCAP, Sambridha Pahad and local government in tourism development. They also unpacked contributions of United World School, Human Practice Foundation, Mahila Shakti Bikas Kendra on making prosperous Taplejung. 

The striking contrast

Early in the morning, we met with Hem Raj Niraula, coordinator of “Loden Chhetra Prachar 5 Barshe Abhiyan”. He has visited the Loden area 24 times for its promotion through his Facebook page. Through his dedicated effort, Loden also became an attractive and popular tourism destination in Taplejung. There are more than 60 glacial lakes, plain pastures with traditional livelihood and rich Tibetan culture. The villagers are involved in agriculture and yak herding. However, most of the local youths are living in the USA. After a quick overview, we then departed to Tapethok Bagar by Jeep at 7:30AM. Observed bunches of cloudy sky, sloppy settlements and Tamor river basin. Meanwhile, the Jeep stopped at Hangdewa Katare Charane Chwok of Fungling municipality ward no. 9. There was a strike of the villagers against Hydropower companies. We understood their demand and observed the land slide area above the newly open road and below the old road opened by their laborious effort. They are demanding to construct a 230 meter galvanized wall to save their farm land and settlements having 60 households. We shared information about the STP project and ensured them to report their demand to the concerned authorities. They thanked us and allowed us to move ahead. Observing hydro tunnels, construction work and river George we crossed Mitlung, Linkhim, Simba, Thimba, Chiruwa and reached Tapethok bagar. It was raining, so we started trekking from there. We came across landslides repeatedly and also passed through greenery of large cardamom before reaching Ranipul village. We then met with a group of 50 Nepalese pilgrims visiting Faktanglung (Kumbhakarn). Most of the pilgrims visit Faktanglugh during August, September and October months. To our unusual surprise, there was no bridge in Tamor. So, we used a tuin to cross the river. It was the first experience in our life. It was exhilarating to say the least. Moving forward through Ghunsakhola and Simbuwakhola dobhan, a hydropower reservoir, we turned right from Kaduri suspension bridge. Leaving the Olanchung Gola road, we reached Sekhathum in the evening. 

Stepping into the sacred land

Our fourth day began with a spectacular view of Faktanglung Mountain from this significant trekking junction. Along with the view, was the beautiful Lelep village where 3 days “Kanchenjunga Hirak Mahotsav” was celebrated in the April month. It was also celebrated in the UK and Kathmandu on the occasion of 70 years of introducing Kanchenjunga Mountain. After a while we moved ahead. There was no suspension bridge to reach Itahari village. I didn’t want to cross a tuin again, but had no other option. Hanged on the second tuin and crossed Ghunsakhola safely. We thanked the villagers who provided emergency tuin service to the visitors including local people. We were again compelled to take a long trail to reach Jaubari. A recently developed short trail was damaged by a landslide. Passing through narrow gorge, narrow trail route and beautiful water falls we reached Lamatar. From there we trekked with pilgrims together and reached Fedi. The trail was now more picturesque with greenery, lush forests and deep gorges. Soon we reached Amjilosa. It is a Limbu cultural influence settlement. Observing rainbow and red flowing plants we reached Pangling hill. I observed the beautiful Amjilosa village surrounded by hills and lush forest again and again. It was raining, the birds were flying over the sky. Passing through the jungles and bush lands we crossed Thangen village and reached Gyabla in the late evening.  

Ghunsa: A Sanctuary of Sherpa Culture

The next day, I observed moving white clouds over the blue sky, the hilly range, rhododendron forest, pine forest, and waterfalls. The main settlement is located upside right from the trail. We came across a group of pilgrims. We introduced ourselves to priests and interacted with them. There were 21 priests and 29 pilgrims in their group. They were the residents of seven different Asian countries. They had organized a 40 days religious journey which was funded by NRN residing in 30 different countries throughout the world. They completed Mahayagza in Mai khola and Pathibhara temple and were willing to end this journey in Faktanglung. The journey has a significant mission “Bishwo Shanti, Manab Yekata and Sakal Prani Rakshyatrhta”.  Interacting with them, observing grazing animals around greenery pastures, lush forest and waterfall we reached Fale. Through the sacred flags on the right and south base camp on the left, we finally reached Ghunsa. On the way, we left the signpost of Nangola Pass, the way to Gola and turned right. Observing grazing animals and playing with baby ships, we reached the Conservation Memorial Chautari. It was dedicated to the lives and achievements of the conservation leaders tragically lost in the Helicopter crash in Ghunsa on 23rd September 2006.  Remembering those 24 male and four female lost conservation leaders we reached Ghunsa in the evening.

Ghunsa is among the largest and significant villages surrounded by high peaks in the area. The villagers here were collecting organic potatoes which are equally famous in Taplejung and Eastern Nepal. It was raining continuously. We canceled our visit to the north base camp and moved towards the south base camp. In the early hours, we visited the KCAP office and school and interacted with the students playing football. From the top, we observed Ghunsa and its surroundings. It was a farm land of the villagers in the past. They lived in Ghunsa during winter and lived in Khambachen during summer. All the villagers herded Yak and produced sufficient uwa, caper and potatoes. They also produced Cupressus torulosa oil and Cyperus rotundus juice. Remembering those days, we moved towards an upside forest. We couldn’t observe scenic beauties and mountain views from the trail. We crossed the Selela base camp and started trekking on a rocky trail. Observing rocky hill side, Lophophorus, flowering plants Makenopsis and maikopila, grassland, and glacial lakes we crossed Selele pass, Mirgimla pass and Selelepcha pass. We could not observe any glimpses of Kanchenjunga and Faktanglung mountain ranges. There was no sign of rain stopping anytime soon. We started moving towards the steep downside and hardly reached Cheram in the late evening. 

The Descent into a Leeches’ Banquet

On the seventh day, I observed high-altitude terrain and rocky hills. The striking views of Ramjel and Oktang side located on the way to the south base camp pulled my attention. We could not visit this site due to the bad weather. After a while, we moved together with temporary business owners originally from Bhotegaun. They operated a tourism business in the southern base camp side. Inspecting the newly opened “Adventurous Trail” route we moved ahead. This Mountain View trail passes through Machewa, Dandu danna, Tuplung, Jhande danda and ends in New Jhoreni. Passing through pine forest, dhupi forest and rhododendron forest we crossed Andhaphedi and Tame then reached Torangdin. We used a newly made wooden bridge to cross Simbuwakhol. The suspension bridge was swiped by the flood. Passing through dense forest and land slides we crossed Lassi Bhanjyang and reached new Jhoreni. There was a welcome gate which was prepared during celebrations of “Sirijangha Mahotsave” in Oktang. Walking through the alpine meadows descending into lush, forested valleys we crossed Jhoreni fedi, Dhupi danda and reached Amjeekhola. The business owners saw us off and turned right towards Bhotegaun. We turned left and crossed Simbuwakho again. The sun was setting and the forest looked beautiful as we reached Nephu hill side. Observed Tembok pokhari and Yamphudin areas for a while. We could not enjoy this panoramic view due to the attack of leeches. The leeches here were something we had never experienced before. We donated blood to hundreds of leeches. It took us a while to get our bodies clear of leeches. Eventually, we reached Nephu in the evening.

Trails and Terraces: The Final Leg to Tellok

The eighth day began as we observed a waterfall, Bhotegaun and green farmlands, and interacted with local youths rearing Yak in Ramjel. They had been supplying ghee and churpi to the mediators. After a while, passing through farm land, tea garden and hydro project we reached Yamphudin. I visited the KCAP office and Kanchenjunga secondary school. From the hydro project site, we turned right and crossed the suspension bridge. We crossed the landslide area and observed the hydro project site from upside down. On the way, we came across cow herds and local people going for fishing and medical treatment. The monsoon had shown its magic with the green settlements of Khewang, Pedang, Mamangkhe and Fumpe villages until we reached Tellok in the evening. 

A Model Village and the Road Home

On the ninth day, we observed the surroundings of this densely populated village. The village had a strong Limbu and Rai cultural presence with traditional housing. Observed Sirijanga rural municipality office. It was/is a model village in Taplejung for ensuring good governance practices. The building infrastructure also seems beautiful. We also visited the temple site and Dhunge Dhara located nearby. It was the last day of our trek. We thanked God and departed to Birtamod by Jeep through mid-hills landscape and terraced farms. Passing through Thumka, Prabhu, Tavatar, Kabeli Jorpul and Sinam Panchami we reached Ganesh Chowk. Again observing greenery settlements and market areas we crossed Fidim, Ranke, Dhobi danda, zero point and reached Ilam Bhanjyang. From there, we turned left and followed Ilam to Jhapa fast track. Observing the settlements and paddy fields and banana farming around Maikhola, we crossed Golakharka Bhanjyang, Rakase, Soyak, Belase, Chisapani, Danabaand and reached Birtamod buspark in the late evening. 

Curfews and Curves: An Unplanned Detour to Kathmandu

On the tenth, eleventh and twelfth days, I visited Bus Park and surrounding areas with my field researcher. Birtamode is a major, densely populated commercial hub in Terai. We interacted with the hotel owners about mountain tourism from a sustainability viewpoint. Luckily we also came across some migrating local youths and the returnees. We talked about nation, nation-state, mountain tourism and development. Finally, on the thirteenth day, I departed to Kathmandu in the evening. But stopped at Itahari due to the Gen Z protest Curfew. We then returned back to the east and followed another alternative route. Observing lightening Dharan, Chatara, Barahachhetra, Katari, Bardiabs, Nepalthok we reached Bhakundebeshi early in the morning. Waiting for the opening of a long traffic jam. Finally, crossed Panchkhal, Dhulikhel, Banepa and Sanga Bhanjyang and reached Koteshwor in the morning 

Reflection: The Real Treasures of Kanchenjunga

This reflection is based on 12 days trekking based research conducted in Kanchenjunga region. The journey itself became a primary source of information on infrastructure resilience. The accessibility of roads increased the number of pilgrims and tourists and created potential for economic growth. However, unregulated road construction by hydropower triggered landslides. The recurring cause of landslides observed in Hangdewa Katare Charane Chwok directly threatens trail integrity, community safety leading to the strike we encountered. It is a powerful example of local people using civil disobedience to demand safety from the road infrastructure which is threatening their livelihoods. We crossed rivers on creaking `tuin` cables two times as suspension bridges had been swept away by floods. We traversed narrow paths through unstable landslides that provided invaluable, empathetic insights into the challenges faced by both tourists and local communities. The pilgrims visiting Faktanglung share the same physical space as the trekker. Their 40-day travel, funded by the Nepali diaspora (NRNs) and with the mission of “World Peace, Human Unity, and Protection of All Living Beings,” frames the landscape as a sacred, ritualistic space. 

We noted expectations of the villagers affected by landslides, views of pilgrims, youth entrepreneurs, “Loden Chhetra” promoter, “Timbuk Pokhari” promoter as well as contributions of the non-government institutions working in this region. We respect their community specific viewpoints that can foster tourism activities in the Kanchenjunga region. Therefore, KCAP leaderships need to establish cooperation with the volunteer tourism promoters, local government and non-government institutions to address local residents’ viewpoints. They collectively develop and implement community specific tourism promotional plans with complete itinerary. Kanchenjunga circuit can be connected with Loden Chhetra in the west and Timbuk Pokhari in the East. In doing so, the flow of international and domestic tourists will be increased in these destinations in the coming future. 

Kanchenjunga region remains one of Nepal’s most spectacular and culturally rich destinations. The presence of these pilgrims adds a layer of cultural depth, showing that the region’s significance extends far beyond its appeal to the inter/national adventurers and pilgrims. Besides, the presence of memorials to the 24 conservation leaders lost in a helicopter crash in Ghunsa shows a strong community commitment to wildlife conservation. Ghunsa is a sanctuary of Sherpa culture. Its quiet streets, centered on a serene monastery, spoke of a deep connection to the mountains and Tibetan culture. Producing organic potato in Ghunsa and Yak herding in Ramjel shows tangible potential for community-based tourism and local income generation. Observing rainbow, red and white flowing plants and beautiful water falls romantically shows a complex engagement with nature. However, crossing the Selele Pass in bad weather without observing five treasures of Kanchenjunga pinched us a lot. The descent was a journey into lush, leech-infested forests, a reminder of the ecosystem’s raw, untamed nature. Besides, the return trip to Kathmandu is profoundly symbolic that was blocked not by a natural landslide, but by a “Gen Z protest Curfew.” This final obstacle bridges the mountaineers, trekkers and pilgrims with the national political reality of Nepal. Therefore, we suggest guests to visit the entire Kanchenjunga region during spring, autumn and winter seasons due to its natural, cultural and religious significance. 

This reflection provides stark evidence of climate change impacts that are threatening sustainable tourism in mountain regions. The trail is a vibrant Sherpa and Rai cultural corridor, but inclusivity requires further efforts. Celebration of the “Kanchenjunga Hirak Mahotsav” in Lelep, UK, and Kathmandu as well as “Sirijanga Mahotsav” in Oktang illustrates a strategic branding of the region, connecting the local to the global through community level efforts. The reflection is an immersion into the fragile balance of a legendary landscape—where ancient trails meet new roads, and where the dream of sustainable tourism depends on resilient communities and a stable climate. STP needs to apply a synergistic approach that prioritizes resilient infrastructure, empowers local communities through targeted capacity building, and biodiversity conservation. It needs to support local municipalities in developing and enforcing construction codes for infrastructure projects to mitigate environmental damage. Establish community-based early warning systems for floods and landslides. Capacity building programs must focus on value-added products (organic potatoes, Yak cheese, `churpi`, Cupressus torulosa oil and Cyperus rotundus), advance hospitality management, and sustainable business models to ensure inclusive benefits to all including people with disabilities.