The Gateway – River Gorges and Landslides

20th August was an exciting day as it was my first trip to Tsum valley and the formidable Larke pass. I thanked the STP, before leaving Kirtipur and reached Gongabu Bus Park to meet my field researcher. We then began our journey to Arughat, Gorkha at 7:00 AM. After reaching Arughat, we took the next bus to Sotikhola located on the bank of Budhi Gandaki river. It was raining heavily in the sloppy settlements. We took a Jeep from Sotikhola and observed landslides and waterfalls along the way. The Jeep stopped nearby Nayauli waterfall. There was no bridge over the stream. Little did we know this was a resemblance of the trail ahead of us. We trekked with tourists and local people together. Interacting with them and observing river gorge and waterfalls, we reached Machakhola in the evening. 

Hot Springs and Checkpoints – Entering the Manaslu Circuit

On the second day, we visited Machhakhola bazar and Dharche rural municipality office. Majority of the villagers there migrated from Lapu village and belong to Gurung community. Observing Dingladevi temple on the right hillside, we moved to Tatopani. We met with a warm and welcoming disabled lady, near the hot spring water. She had received financial support from USAID to operate her homestay. Looking at her, made me think about how little support can make livelihoods better in these mountainous regions. We could not take sacred baths in the hot spring, so we just touched water and went ahead. We reached Dohbhan and interacted with some Mules’ owners and Pathao Bike riders. After a while, observing the beautiful Hungchung village we reached Jagat. There is an entry checkpoint of the MCAP office which was established in 1998. Observing waterfalls, lush forests, terraced farmland, we crossed Sirdibas and reached Philim in the evening. 

A Right Turn into Sacred Territory – The Path to Tsum Valley

The next day, we visited Gumpa in the morning, which is located on the top of the village. It is a dense village of Chumnubri rural municipality having mixed Gurung and Tibetan cultures. The weather was cloudy and foggy. We hardly observed glimpses of terraced farms, river valleys, pine forests and lower Tsum valley. Later in the day, we visited the municipal office, MCAP office and Community Action Network office. Overlooking the Sirdibas village and river views we reached Chisapani. From there, observing narrow gorge Pangsang and Sarsiun villages on the left, reached Eklebhatti. Then we turned right to enter the Tsum valley welcome gate. Tsum valley which is known for its non-violence living is becoming popular throughout the country and beyond. Enjoying the forested trails, mountain views and landslides, we reached Lokpa. We again moved towards Chumling and hardly crossed Thayo khola. The suspension bridge was covered up by a landslide that occurred in June, 2022. After that we crossed Nepal’s first cantilever bridge that was constructed at Yarubagar nearby Sardi khola. This ruined bridge connects seven northern villages of Gorkha district. A brief realization of the importance of these trails and the  impact it has on the livelihoods of people hit me. On the way, we met with a local government employee returning back to Philim from Chumling. It was raining, so we crossed Ghumrung river bridge and reached Chumling in the late evening.

On the Edge of the Cliff – A Dangerous Trail to Upper Tsum

The fourth day began with our visit to Rachen Gompa. We thoroughly enjoyed the surrounding view from the village located in upper Budhi Gandaki valley and in between Lower Tsum valley and upper Tsum valley. After a while, thinking about an alternative route (Renjam-Chumchet-Mandala-Ranagaun), we reached Kunzer. For a while, we could not dare to see the river side on the right. It was a dangerous trail located upside the deeper cliff. Locals reported, two people from Sipchet village fell down and died a few days ago. We hardly crossed Kunzer, Chhi and reached Renjam. This village is the entry point of Ganesh Himal base camp. Observing Renjam village and its surroundings from an upside forest, we reached Gho. The villagers were busy in farmland harvesting millet. After a while, we carefully crossed Chaurikhark, a stone falling area and reached Chhekumpar. This village is the gateway to the upper Tsum valley. The housing structures are similar to Tibetan culture. Interacting with local people, herds and mules owners we crossed Chhekumpar, Lamagaun, Bhulji, Phurbe, Fangdung, Chule and reached the Nile village in the evening. 

In the Shadow of Tibet – Mu Gumpa and the High Desert

We visited the infamous Mu Gumpa on the fifth day. It is one of the oldest monasteries in Tsum valley located in high desert, high cliffs and rugged terrain. Hundreds of yaks and horses were grazing nearby bush lands. Steering to the Tibet border side and colorful flowering plants, we returned back to the Nile. Villagers were busily working in the farmland. We understood agriculture, Yarsa herding and tourism are major sources of their family earning. Thinking about their popular festivals and horse riding culture, we returned back to lower Tsum valley. We could not see working youths in farmland and could not see children playing on the way. The potential of making the upper Tsum valley as an agrotourism and cultural tourism destination lingered on our minds as we reached Chumling.

Plan B – An Uncrossed Bridge and Return to Nubri

On the sixth day, we felt uneasy and different. We were compelled to cancel our plan to join Manaslu circuit from the targeted alternative route (Renjam-Chumchet-Mandala-Ranagaun). There was no suspension bridge in Ungilung khola. We were willing to observe the mountain range and deep forest from this alternative trail route located in upside hills. After a while, observing the Renjam-Chumchet trail route, we moved towards the cantilever bridge. We crossed Lokpa village and Budhi Gandaki river side and re-entered the Manaslu trail in Nubri valley. We reached Nayak Fedi and observed the Rubi Nala valley trail and grazing horses on the left. Then we turned right towards Piwa. Observing bamboo forests, river valleys, small Gompas and Mani walls we reached Deng. From there, observing alpine pastures, mountain views and traditional stone houses, we crossed Ranagaun, Youjung, Bihi and Bur villages and reached Gap in the late evening.

Apple Orchards and Cloudy Peaks – The Ascent to Samagaun

Our seventh day of the trek began as we moved towards Ghapsay. Then we crossed Longa Ghatta from where the Budhi Gandaki river passes from a steep-sided hole of the stone. Observing Purth village, river gorge, forests and waterfalls we reached Namrung village. Quickly visited Namrung Gompa and organic apple farm resort operating in 250 ropani land. The farm produced about 2 lakh kilogram apples. The owner has another four season resort located in Bahrcahng village. We observed this hotel, and crossed Lehi, Sayoo, Chokam, Loha villages then reached Shayala. There was a football match competition in Loho Pema Sambhava Secondary school. The weather was not clear. We could hardly observe stone-walled fields, prayer flags. But could not observe Manaslu views and meadows. Then we sadly passed through a huge plot of agricultural land and reached Samagaun in the evening.

The Mountain God – Glimpses of Manaslu and the Road to Dharmasala

On the eighth day, we visited the ancient Gompas, MCAP exit check point in the morning. The weather was not clear. However, we got a chance to observe a short glimpse of Manaslu peak. It was worshiped as “Kul Devata” the mountain god by the local community. There is a culture to mobilize local porters to carry goods from this village to Base camp. It was pleasant to see the community members following an equal and fair distribution of tourism benefits. This shows how important it is to make agreements with local people for mobilizing local people in mountain tourism. We came across a tourist guide who we met on the first day at Soti khola. It was his 65th visit to the Manaslu region with his American guests. He shared about Base camp, Pungyen Gompa, Bahrain Peak and Birendra Lake, the major tourist destinations located nearby. But we could not visit them all due to time limitations. Observing the Manaslu range, glaciers, and lakeside, we reached Samdo. It is a Tibetan refugee settlement and last major village of Nubri valley.  We observed the surrounding, Tibetan border views side and high pasture land and moved ahead. On the way, women were picking Dhupi and herbal plants. The weather was rainy and foggy. We hardly reached Dharmashala in the late evening.

The Crossing – Sunrise at Larke La and the Descent to Gho

This was the day when we departed for Larke pass at 3:00 AM. We were guided by the senior porter returning back to Kathmandu from base camp. By observing the lake side, rocky and fragile hillside, we reached the pass at 6:30 AM. We thanked him for his company and guidance. It was our first high-altitude crossing trip. From the pass, we happily observed snow-covered mountains, panoramic views, the Larke glacier and beautiful prayer flags and moved ahead.  On the way, we met with groups of Sherpas moving towards Base camp from Beshi side Manang. We also came across hundreds of mules carrying goods and hundreds of local people and domestic tourists. For the first time in our lives, we got a chance to see caravans of mules and people together. It was just like a scene from a movie. Enjoying the view of Ponker glacial lake and snowcapped peaks we reached Bhimtang. Bhimthang is a valley surrounded by rocks and forests and also has a Buddha Park. Later, we crossed Dudhkhola and entered deep Pine forest and Rhododendron forests. On the way, we met a caravan of Mules, local people and international mountaineers too.  Passing through Yak Kharka and Kharche villages we reached Gho village in the evening.

The Long Road Home – Reflections on a River 

This was the last day of our trek. We walked for only one hour in the morning and ended up at Tilje village. It is a southern entry point of Larke pass from Manang side. From there, we took a Jeep to return back to Kathmandu. On the way, I introduced myself to the local mountain climber. He shared about multiple benefits of mountain tourism. Listening to him and floating Marshyangdi river, we crossed Dharapani, Taal, Syange and reached Beshisahar. I saluted his thoughtful profession and thanked him. He also offered to help me and wished for my safe travel. Finally, observing the low land farm and river valley of Beshishar and Khudi and reflecting upon this 10 day Manaslu circuit trek, I returned back to Kathmandu in the late evening. 

Reflection 

This field reflection combines what we observed and thought during 10 days trekking in Manaslu circuit situated in Manaslu Conservation Area and Annapurna Conservation Area. From the local residents’ perspective, Manaslu Conservation Area covers the natural, cultural and religious significance of Dharche, Lower Tsum valley, Upper Tsum valley and Nubri valley. The Dharche rural municipality aims to develop Machakhola as a gate way of Manaslu circuit and Barpak Trek. Chumnubri rural municipality aims to develop Lower Tsum valley as a gate way of Manaslu circuit, Rubi Nala trek, Nubri valley trek and Upper Tsum valley trek. At the same time, the Community Action Network served health facilities in all the six wards of the Chumnubri rural municipality. The institution also implemented educational and livelihood improvement related projects in Lower Tsum valley, Upper Tsum valley and Nubri valley. We respect those local sentiments and community specific viewpoints that can foster tourism activities in this region. Therefore, MCAP needs to establish cooperation with these local government and non-government institutions to address local residents’ viewpoints. They should collectively develop and implement their community specific tourism promotional plan with a complete itinerary. In doing so, the flow of international and domestic tourists will increase in these destinations in the coming future. 

More specifically, the economy of “non-violence upper Tsum valley” depends on Yarsagumba herding, which is a seasonal and ecologically sensitive alternative to tourism. This valley is more than just an extra stop on the circuit. It could be a model for high-value, low-volume cultural tourism and agrotourism. Likewise, crossing the Larke pass is the highest point of the trip, both physically and mentally. Crossing the pass early in the morning is a solitary meditation that ends with a sunrise that sets the prayer flags on fire against a backdrop of snow and sky. The sight of caravan of mules, porters, and climbers making their way to the Manaslu Base Camp from MCAP and ACAP side was a sign of growing popularity of the trail. However, the issue of permits was/is a recurrent point of reservation among the tourism entrepreneurs. The international visitors need to receive four permits: special permit, MCAP and ACAP conservation permits, and Local government permit. This shows that the STP needs to work with both the trekking industry and the high-stakes mountaineering industry to make sure that local residents are benefitted fairly with the satisfaction of tourists and tourism entrepreneurs. We also suggest guests to visit the entire Manaslu region during spring, autumn and winter seasons due to its natural, cultural and religious significance. 

Finally, reflections on Manaslu circuit unpacks sustainability issues hindering mountain tourism. This trail is a living landscape where the positive hopes of the tourists and tourism entrepreneurs, the daily needs of the local residents, and the needs of the fragile ecosystems all come together. Sustainability must encourage community participation in conserving and mobilizing forest, water and land resources properly, and respect local sentiments towards mountain God as more than just a peak to be climbed, but as the heart of a living and preserving traditional culture as well as cultural norms and values. Thus, strategic road infrastructure and safety trials are needed to protect travelers, increase flow of international and domestic tourists and bring inclusive benefits to the local residents. STP needs to develop the Manaslu region as a high-value, low-volume tourism destination through careful marketing and sustainable community-based management. STP must encourage concerned stakeholders to promote a “value over volume” philosophy for promoting agrotourism, cultural tourism and mountain tourism activities.